New Beginnings + Braised Pork
Recipe for a Hearty Italian Braised Pork with Porchetta Spices, Fennel, and Cream
Hello, April!
April is my favorite month, not just because it happens to be my birthday month but because it’s spring. It’s the most beautiful time of the year here in Texas. The warmth of the sun and moisture from the clouds fulfill the season’s promise of renewal and growth. Spring symbolizes new beginnings, but the journey through winter can be tough.
I’ve never felt more displaced than I have during this past year. I became a mother, we moved to a new city and new home, and I’m no longer connected to Wild + Whole, the brand I created 8 years ago. I’m starting over from the ground up, figuratively and literally speaking, since I’m building a new garden and creating a new brand. Some days it feels incredibly daunting; however, I also realize that these changes aren’t an ending but rather a shift into something new and full of opportunity.
If you’ve followed my work on social media, the first big change you’ll notice is that my recipes will include a lot more domestic meat like beef, chicken, and pork. Hunting and fishing have been a part of my life for a long time, and for almost 10 years wild game was pretty much the only protein I cooked with at home. With a baby and more limited access to hunting, it’s become increasingly difficult to maintain that lifestyle. I want to share seasonal, healthy recipes that I actually cook during the week, not just wild game.
This week’s recipe is inspired by fennel, an underrated Spring vegetable, and by the selection of pork at an incredible butcher shop in Corpus Christi called Boarri’s. Spring is short and sweet here in south Texas, and I wanted to indulge in a hearty braised dish before the weather becomes unbearably hot.
This recipe is a cross between two Italian classics: porchetta and milk-braised pork. When I saw the beautiful fat cap on the pork shoulder, I knew it needed to be scored and heavily seasoned with porchetta spices. After browning it much like a skin-on duck (starting in a cold pan to render out the fat), it’s braised with sliced fennel, onion, and heavy cream until it shreds apart easily with a fork.
Maiale al latte, which is Italian for pork braised in milk, uses dairy because the lactic acid tenderizes the meat and the natural sugars caramelize in the cooking process. However, the milk curdles with the long cook time. The texture is not something I’m a big fan of, and so to avoid this issue, I add heavy cream to the braising liquids towards the end of cooking and keep the lid uncovered. The airflow browns the top of the pork shoulder, reduces the sauce, and yields a toasted flavor to the creamy sauce.
If you’re worried about whether the meat gets tender, don’t! There’s lots of acidity from the lemon juice in the braising liquid, and the long cook time in the oven will tenderize this tougher cut. Of course, I often love using wild game when cooking, and this recipe will work with a feral hog roast from the hindquarter or shoulder.
It’s delicious served with creamy parmesan polenta (or white grits) and garnished with a squeeze of lemon and fennel fronds. It’s rich, hearty, and extremely low-lift! Anyone, no matter your skill level, can cook this!
RECIPE
Serves 4-6
3 ½ - 4 pound pork shoulder (pork butt), or wild hog roast
Porchetta Spice Blend (recipe below); substitute with Italian spice blend
1 large fennel bulb, sliced (reserve fronds)
1 sweet onion, sliced
2 cups salted chicken stock
1½ lemons, juiced
½ cup heavy cream
Lemon wedges and parmesan to garnish
Creamy polenta, grits, or crusty bread for serving
Porchetta Spice Blend
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
¾ teaspoon fresh minced rosemary
¾ teaspoon fresh minced sage
½ lemon, zested
¼ teaspoon granulated garlic
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (double for spicy)
¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper
2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
Method:
Preheat the oven to 325℉. Remove the pork shoulder from the refrigerator 30 minutes to an hour before cooking. If there’s a fat cap, you can score it using a sharp knife in a crosshatch pattern to help the fat render. Season generously with the porchetta spice blend (reserve ½ teaspoon to season the fennel and onion).
Place the pork shoulder fat-side down in a cold dutch oven. Set it over a burner on the stovetop and turn the heat to medium. As the pan gets hot, the fat should render out and the surface will brown after several minutes. Flip when a golden crust forms and then brown the bottom side of the pork shoulder. Don’t let it burn. Remove and set aside. (Note, if there isn’t a fat cap, sear the pork shoulder on all sides over medium-high heat.)
Add the fennel and onions to the dutch oven and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are soft and golden. Season with the remaining ½ teaspoon of the porchetta spice blend. Pour in the chicken stock and lemon juice, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom. Return the pork shoulder, fat side up. Cover the dutch oven with a lid and transfer to the oven.
Cook the pork shoulder for 3–3 ½ hours, or until the meat begins to fall apart when pricked with a fork. If there is a lot of fat at the top of the braising liquid, use a ladel and skim the surface to remove. Then, pour the heavy cream into the braising liquid. Use a spoon to mix. Place it back in the oven to cook, uncovered, for another 15-30 minutes, or until the top of the meat is golden brown and the sauce reduces.
Remove from the oven and allow it to rest for 15 minutes. Use two forks and shred the meat into big chunks. Serve the pork with your choice of side and a spoonful of the braising liquid. Finish with some freshly grated parmesan, fennel fronds, and a squeeze of lemon.
Porchetta Spice Blend
Toast the fennel seeds in a dry, hot skillet until fragrant, about 30 seconds to a minute. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and crush. You can also use a spice grinder, meat mallet, or rolling pin. Add to a bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients.
Note: If using a wild hog, adjust the cooktime to about 4–4 ½ hours (or until fork tender) when covered with a lid. Then cook an additional 15-20 minutes uncovered after adding cream.
Happy new beginnings and happy to see you here on Substack! I've made the Maiale al latte a few times, partly because I couldn't get my mind around the braise-in-milk thing. It does have a magical effect on the meat. I made it once with a suckling pig and a LOT of milk, really good. That said, not everyone I was feeding could get excited about curdled milk so I drained it and saved, made an improvised cream sauce. Then I used the saved curdled milk for biscuits, hot cakes and cornbread. Problem solved.